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A Gardener’s Diary: Getting ready for Spring

Finally, the snow is gone … at least in my yard.
11181721_web1_180129-VMS-Gardening

Finally, the snow is gone — at least in my yard.

My hellebore plant, also referred to as a Christmas rose because of the look of the flowers, is full of blooms. According to the ASPCA hellebore is not only toxic to felines, but also to dogs and horses. Primroses, crocuses and snowdrops are blooming, tulips are looking good and the hyacinths are poking their heads out of the ground.

I had a call the other day enquiring about clematis pruning. Some of the growing tips came from the Internet and Garden West magazine. Every clematis should be cut back hard the very first early spring after planting (when you see leaf buds developing as your plant breaks dormancy, leave two sets of buds on each stem between your cut and soil level); following that, it should be pruned according to its grouping.

GROUP A clematis flower only on growth from previous years. Prune to cut out weak or dead stems as soon as they are finished blooming in May or June. Pruning later than June or very severely will result in fewer blooms the following spring.

GROUP B1 produces a heavy flush of flowers May to June on the previous year’s growth followed by a smaller flush of blooms in September on new growth. A light pruning in late February or March with variation in the length of the stems will produce a well-balanced plant.

GROUP B2 blooms continuously from June to September on both last year’s and current growth. For pruning purposes these varieties can be treated as group B1 or C and because of that work well in combination plantings with both these groups.

GROUP C blooms only on the current year’s growth, from early summer through to fall. Cut back plants in late February or March to two strong sets of buds on each stem as close to ground level as possible. If you want to grow a group-C clematis through a tree or have it flower above its normal blooming height, leave it unpruned.

Clematis benefit from a deeper mulch of 7.5 to 10 cm (3 to 4 inches.), spread evenly along the drip line or 30 to 45 cm (12 to 18 inches.) around the plant, making sure to allow a mulch-free space around the woody stem. Deeper mulch provides protection from heat for the roots and helps retain moisture during drought.

As many people downsize and lose the garden space they had, it is still possible to grow a lot of vegetables in pots. You may have to water more often but it is worth every effort.

From a list found on Pinterest, here are some of the best and most productive to grow: tomatoes, beans, lettuce, peppers, radishes, spinach, peas, carrots, cucumbers, eggplant, squash, kale, chard, mustard greens, garlic, rhubarb, bitter melon, okra and collard greens.

In my unheated greenhouse I have some potato plants, lettuce and arugula. Growing in pots. In the house, I have beans blooming, which will go outside one of these days.

Have a very happy Easter. May the beauty of Easter warm your heart and bring peace and joy to all.

For more information contact me by phone at 250-558-4556 or by email at jocelynesewell@gmail.com

Jocelyne Sewell is an organic gardening enthusiast in the North Okanagan and member of Okanagan Gardens & Roses Club.